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News: 2010
30/10/2010 15:13
Alexander Abramov tells. For preparation for an ascent of the Everest it is necessary to train. Certainly, climbing ascents is best training for ascents, but … If you can not leave city, and up to the nearest mountains it is more than 1000 kms, it is necessary to learn to train in city conditions. I want, as an example, to recommend minimally necessary volume of trainings. Monday (morning). Run of 30-40 minutes, bodily exercise, bathing in an ice-hole (or douche by cold water). Tuesday (morning).Pool (swimming): 500-1000 m. Wednesday (morning).Run (bicycle) 1 hour, bodily ... Details » |
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15/10/2010 19:24
Climbing Himalayan mountains in the Fall can be risky at best. Each day is shorter, it is progressively colder and winter looms. So every summit, especially Everest, is highly valued by the climbers. This year, Fall 2010, we saw two summit successes of very different types. First up is the only Fall Everest summit since the Fall of 2008. Eric Larsen and his small Sherpa team summited Everest at around 6:35 AM local time on October 15th. They broke trail and fixed their own ropes on the way to the top. Eric reported in an emotional audio post from the summit that they summited . He later ... Details » |
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08/10/2010 13:42
The Economist Magazine “MOUNT EVEREST is singing for joy and the Brahmaputra River swirling with happiness”. Or so says an official Chinese newspaper (using the Tibetan names, Qomolangma and the Yarlung Tsangpo). After much delay, China has started to extend its controversial railway line in Tibet that will draw more tourists to the mountain and boost trade with South Asia. How happy the outcome will be is not so clear. Planning for the 253km (157-mile) line from the Tibetan capital, Lhasa, to the region’s second city, Shigatse, began in 2002, four years before Lhasa ... Details » |
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07/10/2010 16:30
Part of our expedition is already in Kathmandu, the team leader with best climbers is coming down. The weather on Cho Oyu again deteriorated. Strong winds and high avalanche danger made it impossible to attack the top for our advance team (I.Svergun, S. Bublik, A. Zakolodny, A.Kijko). They decided that climb above Camp 3 (7400m) is extremely difficult because of deep snow and very dangerous. Besides, the last few days the strong wind was blowing in the upper part of the route. Just a few climbers remain at base camp. Only the Koreans decided to starve and wait at base camp the weather, which ... Details » |
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04/10/2010 12:14
At the beginning of last week there were doubts about the fact that someone even be able to climb Cho-Oyu. A significant part of expeditions turned their work. The head of our expedition (Ukraine - Himalaya 2010 + 7 Summits Club) Igor Svergun and Sirdar Mingma Gelu (7summits Adventure) also inclined to the idea of shutting down. However, after getting fairly good prognosis, as well as reports of the successful ascent of some German climber, they decided to continue the expedition. Tickets from Kathmandu were taken on October 16, so that you can still compete. Manaslu Hard season: the ... Details » |
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28/09/2010 18:50
September 27, 17:10. Today, our group went up to Camp 2 at an altitude of 7,150 m. We have overcome heavy wind so the way took more than 7 hours. On the way, there was an ice wall and a few steep parts, which significantly delayed the temp of our group. Many groups came down to one "thread" on the fixed route, and we had to wait in line. Quality of fixed ropes leaves much to be desired. The group of Tibetan climbers who have fix it did not return to base camp to continue operations. Two Sherpas, who yesterday had stopped by a small avalanche, today tried to reach the summit. But they again got ... Details » |
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27/09/2010 10:52
September 25 - the first day when we can say that the weather is good. While none of the expeditions of unable to climb to Camp 3. Chinese "cooperative", which had to fix route has long gone down. Expeditions should make route joining efforts. Igor Svergun - leader of the expedition Our climbers Kijko - Zakolodny – Bublik reached the Camp 2 at 7150m altitude in the last outing and went down. After that, the way was blocked by snow. Two Sherpas, who tried to make a scheduled shipment, were crushed by the powdery snow on a steep section of the ridge. Fortunately, they managed to rescue ... Details » |
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16/09/2010 20:45
Expedition leader Igor Svergun reported from Tibet following. Sept. 15 an auto-part of our expedition ended at the Base Camp (BC), Cho Oyu at an altitude of 5100m. Today Sherpas and yaks begin to transport goods to Advanced Base Camp (ABC, 5700m). After a day of rest and acclimatization at BC, all members of the expedition "7 Summits Club - Ukraine-Himalaya-2010" also make pedestrian crossing (with a stopover at 5400m) to ABC (5700m), where it will be the main base needed to climb the summit of Cho Oyu (8201m). Results of medical examination conducted at the Base Camp, showed that all members ... Details » |
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13/09/2010 15:02
Expedition leader Igor Svergun reports from Tibet: "On 10 September the team successfully reached the Chinese border. The road from Kathmandu in a few places is covered by mudflows and forwarding cargo was transferred manually with the help of the local population. This means additional cost. Some teams who drop in to Tibet, has already lost 5 days on transportation. Total for Cho-Oyu in the fall season showed up about 35 expeditions. We are somewhere in the middle. On the way to the base camp we will have another 5 days of acclimatization. Today we made an ascent to an unnamed peak height of ... Details » |
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08/09/2010 22:29
Three Russians, Viktor Afanasyev, Irina Kukueva and Valery Evgrafov from 11 September to 4 October 2010, will attempt to climb the summit of Shisha Pangma (8027m.) Viktor Afanasyev - one of the leaders of the Russian high-altitude mountaineering, has to his credit ascents on K2, new routes on Broad Peak and Gasherbrum I, together with Valery Babanov. Viktor Afanasyev and Valery Babanov Viktor Afanasyev: "In preparation for the expedition we managed to find several variations on the theme " the height of the main summit”. And the numbers "jumping" from 8013m to 8046m mark. Most frequently ... Details » |
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05/09/2010 20:15
7 Summits Club and our subsidiary Nepalese company 7Summits Adventures (director Mingma Gela) organizes an international climbing expedition on Cho Oyu. Project Manager is 7 Summits Club guide Igor Svergun, who gathered to take part in the ascent climbers from Ukraine and Russia. This action is called also the international expedition "Ukraine-Himalaya-2010". September 4th all Ukrainian participants departed from the airport "Borispol" (Kiev) in Kathmandu, where they were waiting for Russian colleagues. The expedition consists of experienced climbers, that were as members in the spring ... Details » |
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01/09/2010 17:05
Fresh doubt has been cast on the record of a Korean climber, who was hailed in April as the first woman to climb the world's 14 highest peaks. Oh Eun-sun "probably failed" to reach the top of the world's third-highest peak, Kangchenjunga, the Korean Alpine Federation (KAF) judged on Thursday. Top Himalayan record keeper Elizabeth Hawley is investigating the KAF ruling. If she decides to list the 2009 ascent as "unrecognised", the record will pass to Spanish climber Edurne Pasaban. Ms Oh climbed Annapurna, the last of her 14 mountains above 8,000m, on 27 April. Ms Pasaban completed the list by ... Details » |
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