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News: October 2010

Necessary trainings. Alexander Abramov tells.

30/10/2010 15:13

Alexander Abramov tells.   For preparation for an ascent of the Everest it is necessary to train. Certainly, climbing ascents is best training for ascents, but … If you can not leave city, and up to the nearest mountains it is more than 1000 kms, it is necessary to learn to train in city conditions. I want, as an example, to recommend minimally necessary volume of trainings. Monday (morning). Run of 30-40 minutes, bodily exercise, bathing in an ice-hole (or douche by cold water). Tuesday (morning).Pool (swimming): 500-1000 m. Wednesday (morning).Run (bicycle) 1 hour, bodily ...

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Alan Arnette: Himalayan Successes of Different Types

15/10/2010 19:24

Climbing Himalayan mountains in the Fall can be risky at best. Each day is shorter, it is progressively colder and winter looms. So every summit, especially Everest, is highly valued by the climbers. This year, Fall 2010, we saw two summit successes of very different types. First up is the only Fall Everest summit since the Fall of 2008. Eric Larsen and his small Sherpa team summited Everest at around 6:35 AM local time on October 15th. They broke trail and fixed their own ropes on the way to the top. Eric reported in an emotional audio post from the summit that they summited . He later ...

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Mount Everest is singing for joy. Everyone else is worried

08/10/2010 13:42

The Economist Magazine “MOUNT EVEREST is singing for joy and the Brahmaputra River swirling with happiness”. Or so says an official Chinese newspaper (using the Tibetan names, Qomolangma and the Yarlung Tsangpo). After much delay, China has started to extend its controversial railway line in Tibet that will draw more tourists to the mountain and boost trade with South Asia. How happy the outcome will be is not so clear.  Planning for the 253km (157-mile) line from the Tibetan capital, Lhasa, to the region’s second city, Shigatse, began in 2002, four years before Lhasa ...

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It is the end of Ñho Oyu expedition

07/10/2010 16:30

Part of our expedition is already in Kathmandu, the team leader with best climbers is coming down. The weather on Cho Oyu again deteriorated. Strong winds and high avalanche danger made it impossible to attack the top for our advance team (I.Svergun, S. Bublik, A. Zakolodny, A.Kijko). They decided that climb above Camp 3 (7400m) is extremely difficult because of deep snow and very dangerous. Besides, the last few days the strong wind was blowing in the upper part of the route. Just a few climbers remain at base camp. Only the Koreans decided to starve and wait at base camp the weather, which ...

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Our Cho Oyu Expedition continuie work and other news from the Himalayas ...

04/10/2010 12:14

At the beginning of last week there were doubts about the fact that someone even be able to climb Cho-Oyu. A significant part of expeditions turned their work. The head of our expedition (Ukraine - Himalaya 2010 + 7 Summits Club) Igor Svergun and Sirdar Mingma Gelu (7summits Adventure) also inclined to the idea of shutting down. However, after getting fairly good prognosis, as well as reports of the successful ascent of some German climber, they decided to continue the expedition. Tickets from Kathmandu were taken on October 16, so that you can still compete.   Manaslu Hard season: the ...

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